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Video Review & InstallationHey, guys. So, today we're checking out the Front Axle Hub Assembly, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So, if you're looking to do a little bit of extra maintenance to your Wrangler, a wheel bearing and hub assembly is always a great place to start. Now, a lot of the times these are known to go bad on Wranglers, just because when you're adding larger wheels and tires, you're adding extra weight to your Jeep. It can put a lot of stress on the wheel bearing itself and it can start to wear out. Now, you may have already noticed if you already have a worn-out wheel bearing or worn-out hub that you might have a little bit of a shake in the steering wheel, or it might start to be making some noise. Now, a great way to find a solution for that is to upgrade to a new hub. Now, this is going to be a great choice considering that this is an exact factory style replacement. Now, it's not necessarily Mopar but does come with everything that you need in order to get rid of all of those problems that you may be feeling with a faulty wheel bearing or a faulty hub.Now, the wheel bearing is already pressed into the hub, the studs are already pressed into this, it does come with a new wheel speed sensor, and it is going to be made of a very sturdy steel material so you can ensure that it is going to hold up for the long run. Now, with that being said, this is also going to be very affordable for one front wheel bearing or one front hub at roughly $100. So, when taking a look at some other choices on the page, some options may come with two in the kit for both hubs for both sides, and some may not even come with a wheel speed sensor. So, it really kind of comes down to your budget, what you're looking to do, and if you are able to reuse some factory parts. However, if you're looking to keep it more on the budget-friendly side while still getting a factory style replacement option that comes with everything that you need in the kit to get it installed, then this is gonna be a great choice to take a look into. Now, as far as install, this is going to be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter.A little bit of mechanical know-how is definitely needed for this install, but it's not something that you can't get done in the driveway in about two hours with some pretty basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for this install were a trim removal tool, a breaker bar, a hammer, a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, a flathead screwdriver, a 13-millimeter 12-point socket, a 5-millimeter Allen socket, a 21-millimeter and 36-millimeter socket and an impact wrench. So, the first step to swapping out our hub is to take off the wheel. I used a 19-millimeter socket, and if you have factory lug nuts, you will also be using a 19-millimeter socket. Now, our next step is to take off our caliper here. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket and a breaker bar to remove the two bolts that's holding on our caliper behind our rotor here. So, there's gonna be one down at the bottom that I'm gonna do first. Right, put that to the side. We'll need it in a little bit. Now what we can do is actually take this sensor out of this bracket here so we can maneuver our ratchet behind there and get this upper bolt.Then what we can do is actually back our caliper off of our rotor and then make sure that we hang this up so the brake lines are not damaged and we can take our rotor off. Next, we can disconnect our wheel speed sensor. Now, I'm gonna use a 5-millimeter Allen key, and you can crack that free. We take that, put that to the side and wiggle out the sensor itself. It might be helpful to just take a small flathead screwdriver and lightly pry up on it. So, since we can't take the dust shield off just yet, that wheel sensor is going to have to stay there for the time being. But in the meantime, we can take off our axle nut, I'm gonna be using a 36-millimeter socket in order to do that. If you do not have one of these, you can access them very easily at your local auto parts store. I'm also using an impact wrench. However, if you do not have an impact wrench, you can use a breaker bar and put a pry bar in between the current studs here, and you can crack it free that way. I'm just gonna leave that a couple of threads on because we are going to have to knock this off in just a minute.But now we can take off the bolts that are securing the hub to our steering knuckle here. So, our next step is to remove those three bolts that are holding the hub to the knuckle. I'm gonna be using a 13-millimeter 12-point socket, so you will need a 12-point socket for this. You don't wanna use a 6-point socket, it will strip these bolts out, and it's not fun to get them out if they are stripped. So, I'm going to be using a 13-millimeter 12-point socket and a breaker bar. And there is also one on the other side. At this point, what we can do is tap the hub with a hammer to completely disconnect it from the steering knuckle. A lot of the time they will seize together, but with a couple of good hits, it should separate itself. That's why I still have the axle nut here, is because we don't want it to fall off once it is released from the steering knuckle. We wanna make sure that it stays in place. So, I just have this probably like a couple of threads on, and then we can give this a couple of good whacks. I'm just gonna use a ball-peen hammer.So, what we can do at this point once the hub is separated from not only the steering assembly or the knuckle here, but also the axle, we can just go ahead and wiggle that back off. We can also take the dust shield off. For the time being, we're gonna put this back on, but now we can take off our wheel speed sensor. So, you can reuse this if it's in good condition. However, our new hub is going to come with a new wheel speed sensor. So I'm going to go ahead and show you how to replace it. So, we're just going to just start disconnecting the sensor at all of the spots where it's connected. So there's gonna be one on your caliper hose and brake line. It's basically going to follow the brake line all the way up on the frame. And we're gonna have a couple of clips that we need to undo as well. There's one behind our shock here. Then there is two on our brake line bracket on the bottom of our spring perch. I'm gonna use a trim removal tool and carefully remove them, try not to break the clips, because they do break pretty easily. Just like that, perfect.If you are reusing it, you also wanna make sure that you're not getting it dirty. We'll clean it off. Now, there's two clips on the back of our shock tower here. Those are going to connect to our line. So, if you pull this out of the way behind here, it's gonna be difficult to see, but that's what is going to be holding that sensor. So, once that's disconnected there, again, it's gonna be kind of difficult to see. But I'm going to go ahead and just depress that tab and disconnect it like any other wiring harness. So, there is a red locking tab. It might be helpful to grab a flathead screwdriver or that trim tool and just release that. So, once that clip releases, it's gonna look like this, very simple. We can get this out of the way, and then we can grab our new hub. So, what we can do at this point is to pop our dust shield, kind of in place, get our hub in place. Make sure that it's sitting on this line. And then what I wanna do first is route this through before we actually set our hub in place. Now, this hub is going to be identical to your factory one and so is the wheel speed sensor. There's really no difference between the fact that your old hub is old and this one is new.So, this is going to operate exactly the same and so will the wheel speed sensor. So, once that's through, I'm just gonna lay that behind, and we'll kind of get this dust shield in place. There's gonna be little cutouts for each of the bolts, be able to press that on. Now what we can do at this point is take our bolts that are gonna go through the back of the knuckle and line them up as best as we can with the new hub. Get them threaded in. We're gonna throw them in by hand and then one down at the bottom. At this point, it's also maybe helpful to put a little bit of anti-seize on here on each of the bolts. Then what we can do at this point is take that 13-millimeter 12-point socket and start to thread that into the new hub. And that's going to pull the hub into the knuckle here, and we're gonna tighten them down evenly. Then we can thread on our axle nut and tighten it up with that 36-millimeter socket. So, what we can start to do next before we torque everything down is just run our wire for our wheel speed sensor, and we're gonna line everything up just like it was from the factory.So, this is going to slide into the bracket here, then it's gonna follow. These two pieces are going to go into our brake line hose right here. However, we're not gonna put those on just yet because our brake line or our caliper's hanging over here, so we can take this and route it behind. Touch these two clips. Just like the factory one, we can go behind, grab our harness, plug it in. Once it's plugged in and you hear a click, you can just press the clips into place, and you're all set to go as far as the wheel speed sensor is concerned. So, before we go ahead and throw the rotor and the caliper back on to our hub here, you just want to make sure that the axle nut is torqued to 100 foot-pounds and the three hub assembly bolts are torqued to 75 foot-pounds. Then we can take our rotor, pop that back into place. We can grab our caliper, and then we line that back up. All right, we're gonna grab our caliper bolts. Those are the 21-millimeter bolts in the back. Thread those into place.Once those are threaded in by hand, we can take our 21-millimeter socket and tighten those up, and you wanna torque these to 35 foot-pounds. Then last but not least, you just wanna make sure that these are popped into place so nothing is loose and getting in the way of anything. And then once that's in place, you can add your wheel, and you're all set to go. So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe, and for more videos and products just like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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DescriptionInstallation & What's in the BoxInstallation Info Installation Time (approx) 2 Hours Difficulty Level: Light to Moderate mechanical skill required. What's in the Box
Tech Specs4.9 Customer Reviews (32)Questions & AnswersWill It Fit My Wrangler
Let Us Help!Have questions about this product? A vehicle enthusiast is standing by to chat LIVE to help. Recently ViewedHow long does it take to change a wheel bearing on a Jeep?It can take 90 to 120 minutes to replace a single wheel bearing depending on the make and model of your vehicle. Here's what can affect wheel bearing replacement time: The mechanic's expertise in doing the job. Location of the wheel bearing being replaced.
What are the signs of a failing wheel bearing?The symptoms of bad wheel bearings include:. Noise: A humming, rumbling or growling noise that increases with acceleration or as the vehicle turns. ... . Looseness, excessive play in the steering wheel (vague steering);. Steering wheel vibration which changes with the vehicle speed or as the vehicle turns;. ABS malfunctioning.. How much should it cost to replace front wheel bearings?The national average is about $350 to fix the wheel bearings at one wheel. As you might imagine, however, luxury brands cost more. Please note: If the wheel bearings need replacing at one wheel, you don't necessary need to replace the bearings at the other wheel on the same axle. It's not like matching a pair of tires.
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2008 jeep wrangler front wheel bearing
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