27 inch single speed rear wheel

Hi. I have an old Fuji Gran Tourer with 27 inch wheels. I have converted it from a 10 speed to a single be removing the derailers and shortening the chain.

My wheels are terribly untrue and Im looking to replace them. I'm a newbie when it comes to bike terminology and components.

What I want is a nice set of basic, durable wheels (and anything else necessary) that will serve me well as a Single Speed rider.

My budget is tight right now so the cheaper the better.

Suggestions/links are greatly appreciated and will open up discussion. Thanks everyone.

My Bike:

52 teeth.

14 teeth.

Harris has a set for $100. I don't know if you could get much cheaper.
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html
If you want to use your existing freewheel, you'll need the appropriate removal tool, or have a shop remove it for you. For a little more money and work you could have a neater looking SS by putting on a SS freewheel.
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/singlespeed.html#freewheels
Getting a good chainline with the SS freewheel might require you to re-space the axle and re-dish the wheel, which is not really dificult but might seem daunting if you have little mechanical experience.

BoogieTrain said:

Hi. I have an old Fuji Gran Tourer with 27 inch wheels. I have converted it from a 10 speed to a single be removing the derailers and shortening the chain.

My wheels are terribly untrue and Im looking to replace them. I'm a newbie when it comes to bike terminology and components.

What I want is a nice set of basic, durable wheels (and anything else necessary) that will serve me well as a Single Speed rider.

My budget is tight right now so the cheaper the better.

Suggestions/links are greatly appreciated and will open up discussion. Thanks everyone.

My Bike:

52 teeth.

14 teeth.

A "tight budget" varies based on your income level. 100-200 range 300-500 range?

WHoa 52/14.. Hope you don't live near any hills.

BoogieTrain said:

These are pretty much the same as the Jensen link wheels right?
Are these $40 Dimension wheels good enough quality for general urban riding?

They're the same wheels. Keep in mind that the rider weight and riding habits matter the most when it comes to wheel durability. One NYC rider would trash these wheels in one week, another NYC rider would run them for years.

Two suggestions:

- Including a link to this thread, try posting your questions again in the Fixed/Single Speed forum. You'll probably get more responses.

- With the new wheels, a new chain, a BMX freewheel, a rear-wheel re-dish (and perhaps a quick-release to bolt-on axle conversion for wheel theft prevention), you're going to go above your budget limit. Since you're riding the bike, the old wheels can't be all that badly out of true. Why not try to have have the old wheels trued? You could then run the chain on the small front ring and a cog somewhere in the middle of your freewheel. You already have a functional single-speed—there's really no need for the BMX freewheel other than satisfying the fashion police. Add a rear-brake, if you can—money better spent.

/w

you make good points wim. It definitely going to cost me almost $200 minimum. Theres a nice flipflop wheelset im trying to get from craigslist for $100. Otherwise the wheels are going to have to wait until I have more money.

Bike stores usually charge to true one's wheels right? The guy at one bike store told me that I just need a front hub adjustment because my wheel was wobbling (and a new back wheel since I was riding a SS with 6 cogs in the back. And at another store i specifically asked the guy if my wheels were worth fixing up. He said no, and that new wheels would cost 80+labor, using my old cogs.

BoogieTrain said:

you make good points wim. It definitely going to cost me almost $200 minimum. Theres a nice flipflop wheelset im trying to get from craigslist for $100. Otherwise the wheels are going to have to wait until I have more money.

Bike stores usually charge to true one's wheels right? The guy at one bike store told me that I just need a front hub adjustment because my wheel was wobbling (and a new back wheel since I was riding a SS with 6 cogs in the back. And at another store i specifically asked the guy if my wheels were worth fixing up. He said no, and that new wheels would cost 80+labor, using my old cogs.

Well, I think you're caught between people who have different perceptions on things. Front hub readjusted is a 10-minute job unless there's a problem. Trueing costs money,yes. If the rims are actually bent ("pretzeled") instead of just being pulled out of alignment by uneven spoke tension, they're pretty much toast. But since you're riding the bike, I doubt that.

What I don't get is the new back wheel because of "riding SS with 6 cogs in the back." You're riding SS, right? And that old wheel of yours, if trueable, will take a BMX cog if that's what you really want. As said, the wheel would have to be re-dished for a good chainline (straight, not bent, chain run) if you go with the BMX cog. Not a big deal. Hope it all works out!

Picked up these today for $90 from craigslist

Swift Arriv

The guy said they had about 100 miles on them, and it looks that way.

Gonna install them tomorrow morning when it dries up outside, though i gotta get some presta valve things at the LBS.

Gonna get a new chain, seat, and front brake, and eventually paint my bike. Ill update with pics.

Judging by the chainring, what size chain works with what I have?

BoogieTrain said:

Picked up these today for $90 from craigslist

Gonna get a new chain, seat, and front brake, and eventually paint my bike. Ill update with pics.

Judging by the chainring, what size chain works with what I have?

These look like decent wheels, but are they 27"? If they're 700C, they're 8 mm smaller than 27" in diameter, so your brake pads would need to go down 4 mm—which might not be possible with the old brake or a standard-reach new brake. Make sure the new brake can reach the rim braking surface before you buy. Sheldon Brown has a good article on brake reach.

Not sure what you mean by chain size—they all come too long and need to be cut to fit. As to width, I run an 8-speed (also known as 6,7,8-speed) chain on my fixed bike. Excel Sports has a good price on SRAM PC-850 8-speed chains right now, so I bought three before they're all gone.

http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Chain+PC-850&vendorCode=SRAM&major=1&minor=11

/w

Wim makes important points.

Another point: I didn't notice at first in your pics that you're running only a single brake with a SS (freewheel). Maybe you did that consciously, but most folks don't recommend it (and I agree). You only have a brake on one wheel that way, and no way to drag the rear wheel if the front brake fails, or in situations where rear-wheel braking is desirable (e.g., downhill on wet or loose surfaces). If you were running FG, you can do some braking at the rear by pedal back pressure. Most of the bikes you see with a single brake are FG.

So if you need to buy new brakes to accomodate your new wheels, I'd suggest installing a pair. Unless you know what you're doing and are willing to take those chances.

Or you could flip that wheel and try fixed ;-) you might like it; who knows?

i plan to try the fixed soon!

But for now, Im planning to go to the LBS and have them re-dish my wheels if necessary and to have them install brakes (front and back) that reach these 700c wheels.(if they can)

About chain size, I see stuff like this and don't know what it means :-/
KMC Z410 Chain Single 1/2" x 1/8"
ConneX 7R8 Chain - 1/2x3/32", Nickel-Plated, Single Speed (though I think i just realized that this is a more narrow less-standard size?)

Is that chain you linked to good my a SS/Possible FG, which is not an 8 speed drivetrain

oh and thanks for making quality posts and stating valid concerns

ConneX 7R8 Chain - 1/2x3/32", Nickel-Plated, Single Speed (though I think i just realized that this is a more narrow less-standard size?

Almost, but not quite right. more narrow, but more standard. The wider 1/8" chains are used normally on track bikes, the 3/32 on normal road bikes. There are actually varied widths within the nominal 3/32.

you don't need a 1/8 chain unless the cog on the wheel you bought is that width. You can use the wider chain on narrower gears, but not vice versa.

How can I measure what width chain my cog uses? A link to a good chain for SS use?

Also, I took my bike to the store today with my Arriv wheels. They guy said that in order for him to install the appropriate brakes for my smaller wheels, i'd need a flat handlebar. I was planning on getting flat bars anyways because I don't like my drop bars. The only flat bars I see are categorized at MTB Flat Bars (MTB = Mountain Bike?).

Is there anything wrong with basic handlebars like this:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=11129

BoogieTrain said:

How can I measure what width chain my cog uses? A link to a good chain for SS use?

Also, I took my bike to the store today with my Arriv wheels. They guy said that in order for him to install the appropriate brakes for my smaller wheels, i'd need a flat handlebar. I was planning on getting flat bars anyways because I don't like my drop bars. The only flat bars I see are categorized at MTB Flat Bars (MTB = Mountain Bike?).

Is there anything wrong with basic handlebars like this:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=11129

If you have a caliper, or a ruler and a good eye, you can measure the thickness of the cog. Chances are very high it's 3/32.

That guy's full of it. You can get brake calipers with the appropriate reach that work with any road levers. Readily available cheap.

Nothing wrong with basic bars like that, but you need to be sure the bar diameter matches the clamp of your stem.

Why don't you like drop bars?

Measure reach like this:

JCavilia said:

You can get brake calipers with the appropriate reach that work with any road levers. Readily available cheap.

He might have a problem getting a newer brake on that fork. It looks like it is the old nutted style brake and not the more modern allen bolt type brake. I have a similar frame that only takes the old style brakes, so I am stuck with my Weinmann sidepulls from the 70s.

centurionomega said:

He might have a problem getting a newer brake on that fork. It looks like it is the old nutted style brake and not the more modern allen bolt type brake. I have a similar frame that only takes the old style brakes, so I am stuck with my Weinmann sidepulls from the 70s.

The only issue is the diameter of the hole in the back of the fork, which is too small to accomodate the recessed nut used on most brakes now. It's easy to enlarge that hole with a little careful drilling. Use a drill bit that's just large enough. It's not a difficult or high-precision operation. I've done it, as have many other people on this board.

So you can upgrade your brakes if you want to